I was nervous because I had booked a trip on the Inca trail. I’d read it’s a hard trail, mainly because of the altitude and since this would be my first time at such an altitude, I had no idea how my body would react. I decided to make my way to Cusco over land, stopping in Arequipa along the way. I would also do some hikes while adjusting to the altitude. In the end I’d covered most of the altitude before the Inca trail even began.
At 2.335 m Arequipa is not very high and you don’t really notice you’re at an elevation when you explore the city. However, about 160km away lies the Colca Canyon. With 3.270 meters, it’s one of the deepest canyons in the world and it’s special because it lies at an altitude of about 3.700m, depending on where you are of course. Its size is impressive and if you’re lucky you’ll see condors gliding through the sky. The drive out to Cabanaconde, the base town from which you reach the Colca Canyon was stunning. The pick up was in the middle of the night, but as we drove through the snowy landscape I didn’t care about that anymore. We ate breakfast at a local house along the way before we were dropped off at the edge of the canyon.
And then you stand at the start of a trail that doesn’t seem to end, staring out over this immense canyon. It takes your breath away. The beauty is overwhelming and even though I’m so tired, I am full of energy. Chatting and laughing our group walks down, zigzagging over the small trail. Even at a proper pace it takes a while to reach the bottom. It’s easy, even though you’ll notice it in your muscles a bit later. After reaching the bottom of the canyon you’ll cross a bridge and will soon reach San Juan de Chuccho. A few accommodations offer beds and food. We just stop for lunch.
Recharged we continue our journey through the canyon. It’s surprisingly green in some points, the foliage so thick we pushed ourselves through. We also pass some more villages. It’s amazing, but quite a few people live permanently on the bottom of the canyon. One of those people has an angry little dog. Seriously, the thing is tiny, but barking ferociously at all the hikers trodding past. He just keeps barking, until he sees me. I’m at the back of the group at this point and the dog bites me.
Blood starts dripping from one of the two little holes he left in my leg. I freak out and cry instantly while the group keeps moving. Exactly one year ago I got bitten by a dog. I can’t belief it’s happened again. My guide doesn’t want to take me out of the canyon, claiming that it’s fine and the dog probably doesn’t have any diseases. I’m not reassured. After a while I calm down though, because I know I’ve had some shots from my last bite and I now have more time to get to a doctor. I’ll do it right when I get back to the city.
The Colca river flows through the canyon and if you follow it you’ll get to the oasis; the town Sangalle. It’s called the oasis because it’s a small green paradise in the middle of the at this time of year green, but still arid landscape in and around the canyon. There are a few accommodations, often with a pool and a sense of luxury, however basic that luxury was in my cheap package. After hiking through the canyon, you get rewarded with a swim, followed by a big meal.
After a night at Sangalle, you get up early for your return to Arequipa. As if one early day is not enough, we are now standing in the dark, headlights on, ready to start the day with some intense exercise. There is no breakfast until you reach the top, so I get some energy from some muesli bars. After cruising down and through the canyon, it’s now time to climb back out. It’s definitely not easy! Sangalle lies at about 1.900 meters and from here you’ll need to ascend over 1.000 vertical meters to get out. The worst thing is that as you get higher, and your legs are getting tired, the air gets thinner and the challenge greater.
I start full of energy, moving along at a good pace. Step by step I walk up through the many, many switchbacks. I try not to look up, but I can’t help it. The top doesn’t seem to get much closer. Then I hear something behind me again. My head turns and I see another short donkey train. Some people don’t hike out, but take a ride on a donkey. The poor animals. I squeeze myself against the wall and watch how the donkeys pass, their feet on the edge of this immense drop. You couldn’t pay me to get on one of those donkeys! I clench my teeth together and soldier on.
Slowly the sun is rising and I don’t need my light anymore. It’s still early, but I’m drenched in sweat. However, the end is near. I walk slower and slower, taking mini breaks to catch my breath and talk some courage into myself. “You can do this.” “Almost there.” When I’m really almost at the top I see a couple of guys from my group. They’re cheering for a few of us, who are nearly there. I can’t even speak at this point. At the top it seems like all the breath has disappeared from my lungs and all my energy has evaporated. I get to catch my breath while waiting for the other hikers. If this wasn’t a good training for the Inca trail, then what would be?!
Colca Canyon was challenging! However, it was such an adventure. This is another one of nature’s gems and I’m so lucky I got to explore it!
