After lots of doubts I now stood at the start of the walk to laguna del Caminante. The trail head was only 5 km away from my hostel and I would walk all the way around the side of Ushuaia through the mountains, with an overnight stay at the lagoon. I was immediately calmed down by the other people who were parking their cars and getting ready to hike too. If something were to happen, I was not alone.
I think you had to walk through some private land first, as the official sign to the walk came later. As per usual the hike started climbing up through the forest. I felt good. I felt confident. I went by the mantra “soy una mujer fuerte”, I am a strong woman, and filled myself with positive energy. I quickly got used to my backpack and had a steady pace going. Before I knew it, I popped out of the forest and arrived at an area filled with stones. Suddenly I could see an entire valley and the wind was much stronger.
I kept going in my t-shirt since I had to keep climbing. Eventually the trail went flat. I had to walk halfway up the hill and continue through the valley. I could see the peaks on my sides, the forest below me, horses deep down in the valley and a glimpse of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel behind. The views were incredible! It was time to add a jacket because it was quite chilly now. The walk was easy until it started to go up again. Suddenly a pain shot through my leg. I pulled a muscle. I think I overstretched it. It hurt so much. I kind of stumbled or limped on for a bit. I was already so far!
Focussing on what I could and couldn’t do with my leg, I completely missed the turn to the ice cave. When I looked up again I could see the trail below. So I went straight towards it, off the trail, over the loose rocks. It was a trail you had to backtrack, so I decided to leave the backpack at the start and go up the steep hill without the extra weight. I learned I could climb without pain if I stood on the toe of my right foot, rather than on the whole foot. This way I didn’t overstretch it. I could also sort of go sideways. Walking on flat terrain or going down was not a problem at all. So I easily went down the other side of the hill and saw the most artistic natural wonder. The cave looked like a rolled up zebra, with black lines in the snow. It was magnificent!
After this short visit I still had a way to go through the Paso de la Oveja, sheep’s pass. It was a bit more uphill to reach a view of the other side. It was completely rocky, a red kind of rock. The mountains were spikey. There wasn’t a clear trail anymore, but you had to look for markers and piles of stone in the landscape. When the trail was clearer again, the views became greener. And eventually the trail got muddier once again. Coming out of the mud was a three-way intersection. It was a short way to the lagoon or the long way out the other way. I decided I wanted to at least see the lagoon and went up the last very steep section.
Wow! From above it was postcard perfect. Bright blue water surrounded by mountains. Descending was a bit scary, over a trail that had a stream of water and some really big steps. Then I had to take my shoes off the cross the river and I arrived at the camp site. It was wonderful and I knew I was going to stay. If my muscles got stiff I would deal with it the next day. I pitched the tent near the water, read my book and stared out over the water. Slowly more campers arrived. All this worry about being alone. It’s the high season. You’re never alone. I did make a stupid mistake. I was wearing socks in flip flops and was looking for a “forest toilet”. I went through the fake dry grasses that sink when you step on them. My socks got so wet!
In the mornng they had dried, but the smell of them lingered in my tent. I heard rain falling and listened while worrying if it would stop. I couldn’t take a wet tent to Antarctica. But it stopped and with some patience and toilet paper I managed to pack it dry and was ready for my return to the city. At least most of the way out is going down. Well after climbing out of the lagoon that is.
The first part was a little, muddy challenge, but my hurt leg managed it well. So I went to the lago Superior for a short visit. It required a small river crossing in my flip flops, but was only a short walk. After that I could warm up my feet and keep my shoes on. However, there were plenty of wet and muddy passages to come. I didn’t expect anything less since the entire way down was through the forest. Some brave trail runners were running all the way up. I got tired at the thought.
The way was pretty uneventful. I was happy my legs were cooperating and I enjoyed the easy day. There were some nice river crossings over tree trunks. Thank goodness they had a handrail! I came past many sections with fallen trees and heard others creaking. Not a very comfortable sound! I also encountered many people going up. I guess we all have the same doubts. I got asked if it was still far and if the trail was well marked. At the very end I saw a pretty woodpecker with a tiny black mohawk and a red stripe on his head. At the end of the trail I didn’t have signal, so I kept walking until I could order an Uber. I am so happy I pushed through. I got challenged, but was also rewarded in so any ways. A trip like this strengthens the much needed confidence!
