Doubts. They just keep coming back. No matter how many hikes I’ve done, problems I’ve solved and adventures I’ve lived, I always end up questionning if I’ve got what it takes. This time I’m feeling particularly vulnerable. I leave camp early and the thoughts start rolling in. Then I’m doing it and can let it go, until the next challenge, or the next day. It’s a 4 day trail and my self confidence goes up and down like the mountains.
Cerro Castillo isn’t as famous as Torres del Paine, but it seems to be gaining popularity each year. I’m trying to find people who are doing the 4 day trek on the campground/hostel in town. My biggest doubts come from being alone in the mountains, without signal or a second brain. So I feel relieved when a group of 4 Chilean boys says they are going. Later I find out another Chilean guy will meet his friends at the start of the trail. There’s also a guy from Germany and a guy from Israel starting. See the trend here? They are all guys! Despite having enough people to fill a taxi, the solo guys decide they want to hitchhike, and thus so am I. It’s a quiet Sunday. But after 1 hour I get lucky. A family that’s on its way to the trail stops for me. I get out on the trail early.
The first leg is just over 15km and not very challenging. It meanders through a forest and fields with cows, mostly on a dirt road. There are a lot of calves and I’m trying not to scare any of them, or their mums or dads. There’s a big bull in the field as well. As it’s not officially the national park yet, there are some river crossings without bridges. The water is pretty low, so I take off my shoes and can easily cross. Only in the wider river my feet come out red from the freezing water. Shortly after entering the national park I arrive in a wide valley, where the campsite lies in the forest, next to the Turbio river. Since I arrive at camp early, I’m the first to pick a spot, set up my tent and walk a bit further to see the laguna of glacier Peñón. There’s some snow on the cliffs, but the glacier is hiding around the corner. I’m enjoying the good weather and the feeling of being away, surrounded by the power of nature.
The night is cold. The Israeli guy said it would get to -2 degrees in the village. I didn’t want to think about it. But in the morning I decided to get out early and start moving to get warm. I went up through the forest, until the Peñón pass revealed itself above the tree line. It’s a big pile of rocks that have fallen from the walls on either side. The path slowly fades away and I’m following little piles of stones. They are kind of hard to see in a landscape of rocks. There are some poles marking the trail, but a bunch of them have fallen over. I’m paying attention to my feet and am amazed when I look up. Behind me I look through the valley, with the forest where the camping is hiding in the distance.
Despite having to cross a patch of snow, the pass is easier than I’d expected, so the confidence grows. The way down is perhaps the harder part. I slip, so I decide to use the ropes provided. On the other side awaits a whole different world. A glacier is hanging high on the mountain and there are many waterfalls gliding down the rock. The water comes together in a river that I follow through the valley. There’s a piece of forest between rivers and at times I get a glimpse of more glaciers through the trees. Just before I reach the campground, there is an incredibly steep forest trail. But then, after 10km, I’m there. Again it’s around lunch time. Today’s side trail goes to another laguna, which might be my favorite spot on the trail. The sunshine on my face definitely makes it even better, but after a rocky climb I arrive at a beautiful lake, surrounded by glaciers. One of them lies very high on the steep cliffs. It comes snaking down in an S shape. Another (part of) the glacier reaches the lake. The bottom part is dirtier though, covered in rocks. I only see 3 other people and one of them takes a dip in the cold water. I skip my bath today.
On day 3 I’m up early enough to see the sun rise through the forest. I catch the mountains lighting up in orange, like fire. Then I start the hardest day. It’s only 9km, but depending on the weather conditions, the mountain pass can become tricky or even dangerous. My day is cloudy, but there isn’t much wind yet. I walk past another glacier, cross a stream hopping over the stones and take my last look towards the Peñón pass as I approach the Cerro Castillo itself. Laguna del Castillo is quiet, apart from a few ducks. Today I have a few people closer behind me though. I realise I’ve stayed on the trail near the water for too long and have to climb up the rocks to reach the real trail. At the top I see the people behind me going for the exit trail towards town. Doubts come in again. Do they know something about the weather that I don’t? I look up at the sky. The clouds are very high up although some are coming in from over the mountain. I need to climb a lot higher to the ridge and follow it to the other side. I decide to go and check the situation at the top.
Just as I arrive at the top, a girl comes from the other side, followed by two others. The other side is less cloudy than I thought. Unfortunately the clouds are hugging the peaks of the mountains, but I have clear sight of my route, the town beneath me and the incredible valley with the carretera austral. The way down is steep! I whisper words of encouragement to myself. Step by step, without slipping, I get to lower ground. Practically straight after this steep descent I come to a river and the Porteadores campground. It’s early and thus I decide to put up the tent, eat something and hike to the laguna Duff for the afternoon. There’s a campground a bit further along, but if mine is closer to the exit of the trail.
The trail steadily climbs through the forest to Neo Zelandés camping. There are really nice bridges over every stream or river. There are even signs counting the kilometers. Laguna Duff is a popular day hike and that’s noticeable on the trail. The very end is another rock field with some sticks indicating the direction. I suddenly hear my name. It’s a guy I talked to in the kitchen in Cochrane. He’s out on a day hike. More clouds roll in as I approach the laguna. When I reach the end, there’s also a chilly wind and just enough rain to be annoying. The combination was quite uncomfortable at least. So I don’t stay long, but turn around to head the same way back. I would have had time to leave the park entirely, but I decide to sleep in my tent one last night. It’s actually a nice temperature in my skeeping bag.
I have an easy morning. The weather is somewhat better again. I hang my tent to dry and air out, pack up and hit the trail. It’s an easy hour downhil to the exit. Unfortunately there’s a long 6,6km dirt road to walk back to town. Dusty and smelly I arrive at the hostel. After some cups of tea and a shower I treat myself to a lunch in a bus that’s been converted to a restaurant. A milanesa, pretty much a chicken schnitzel, with a pile of home cut fries. It’s accompanied by a leaf of lettuce and two slices of tomato. But it tastes amazing. And it’s just the treat I need. Doubts or not, I did it!
