After the second world war Berlin was a mess. There was rubble everywhere and the people, a lot of them women, started to clean up the streets. This resulted in some rubble hills, that are now the highest points in the city and are often surrounded by park. The 120 meter high Teufelsberg in Western Berlin is surrounded by trees, so it isn’t until you climb up the nearby Drachenberg that you see the iconic tower on top of it.
When the war was over, this hill lay in the British sector, but soon the Americans showed interest in the hill as well. The two allies built a spy station in the 1960s. From here they listened to the East, to the Soviets and the DDR. With the fall of the wall and the end of the Cold War, the station was abandoned. All papers were burnt and only the building was left behind. Over the years it was sold, new building plans were made, that failed, then it was abandoned and more recently it turned into a recreational area for all Berliners to enjoy.
Now you can enjoy a guided tour, admire the changing street art or have a drink at the outdoor café. The tour used to take visitors up into the building and to it’s roof, from where you have a spectacular view over the city. Unfortunately the building wasn’t considered safe anymore and now the company offering tours is waiting for a new permit. It’s unfortunate since the building also houses many pieces of street art that are now inaccessible. For now you can walk around the outsides and listen to the stories from the past, as they are told by a former employee stationed at the spy station.
If you want to get out of the city, the spy station is a nice afternoon trip. It’s a very pleasant walk from the Heerstrasse S-bahn station through the Grunewald forest. You can divert up the Drachenberg, where people come to fly kites or enjoy a picnic or sunset. From here you still get a beautiful view towards the city and the spy station. If you decide to go on the forest paths, just watch out for the many mountainbikers!
