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November 12, 2020 by andreaonderweg

The seven hanging valleys of the Algarve

The seven hanging valleys of the Algarve
November 12, 2020 by andreaonderweg

The Algarve in Portugal is known for its sunshine and stunning beaches. But lazing in the sun isn’t the only thing the region’s got to offer. The spectacular coast line creates a great place for hiking and even in late October you can still find pleasant temperatures that invite for a swim.

Dramatic cliffs at Praia da Marinha

Unfortunately October also has its gloomy days and I’ve experienced both. One day I visited the famous Benagil cave and beach with two other travelers. We made it a beach day and decided to swim into the famous cave, as opposed to taking an expensive boat ride or hiring kayaks. The cold water gave a shock to the system and I was glad that the hole in the cave let some warm sunlight through. But on the way back my body adjusted to the water temperature much quicker and I started enjoying it. If you’re a good swimmer, this is a good option to see the cave.

The day after was a moody day. Thick clouds had drifted in and they only occasionally gave way to the sunlight. This dramatic weather made the scenery of cliffs look even more daunting. The perfect day to go on the 7 hanging valleys trail. This coastal trail leads you past some of the highlights of the region in the landscape full of caves and sinkholes.

When I started it was fresh, a bit windy and the sky was covered by a thick layer of clouds. What had looked so vibrant the day before, now looked a bit dull. The beautiful blue water of the ocean had turned into a a green-grayish mess of wild waves. It seemed like a completely different place. But it didn’t make it less impressive. The power of mother nature was in full force and it gives you some idea of how this landscape was formed and is ever changing.

Incredibly beautiful rock formations near Praia do Carvalho

I didn’t really notice how different it was until I arrived at Benagil. I barely recognised the beach. The day before it was packed with people and many kayaks went onto the water towards the cave, just around the corner of the cliff. Today the waves were too wild for the kayaks and therefore it was completely empty.

Benagil beach without any people
Benagil beach in the sun
Benagil: what difference one day can make!
Looking into the Benagil cave from above

From Benagil it’s a short walk to Praia da Marinha. What a fantastic beach! The clouds had made some room for the sun and it lit up the yellow-orange cliffs beautifully. This beach almost seems unreal. There are so many towers of rock in the ocean and piles of stones on the beach. Together with the cliffs it’s a true piece of art.

The caves at Praia da Corredoura
Part of Praia da Marinha
Walking between the rocks on Praia da Marinha
Benefits of October: only a few people on the beach
Mother nature’s masterpiece

From here you could continue walking, but I returned since I was planning to walk all the way back and on to Carvoeira, even though the hike officially finishes before that. There are trails along the coast everywhere though, so you can easily create your own hike, depending on where you are staying.

On my way to the West the weather gradually got worse. I could see the forecasted rain coming my way and crossed my fingers it would wait for a couple more hours. Although the sites were not as beautiful as Praia da Marinha anymore, I still saw plenty of cool things, like the huge overhanging cave at Praia de Vale Covo. I don’t know if the sea retreats enough to walk into it at low tide. Now it was cut off from the beach by the water. Praia do Carvalho is also super special. Access is through a little tunnel that has some steps cut out of it. Once you are on the beach you are really completely surrounded by the high cliffs.

Coming closer to Cavoeira the path turns into a boardwalk with some information signs. You can walk all the way into the town where there are lots of restaurants, ice cream places and shops. It’s cute and nice to hang around for a little while. Rain or shine, I loved this easy to follow coastal path. Even after hiking down the West coast of Alentejo and the Algarve, this still managed to impress!

Waves are crashing into the cliffs
One of the many sinkholes on the trail
The storm’s coming…
Praia de Vale Covo has this incredible cave
The beach in Carvoeira when I finished my walk

The downside of the trail is that it’s a bit harder to reach if you don’t have a car, but it’s not impossible. From my base in Portimao I took a bus to Praia do Carvalho with the local EVA buses. From there I walked all the way to Praia da Marinha and then returned again, continuing on to the town Carvoeira, from where there are several buses back to Portimao.

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1 comment

saltofportugal says:
November 13, 2020 at 9:50 pm

Beautiful photos!

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