A true camino experience in rural Portugal
The camino from Alvaiázere to Rabaçal It was really lovely that the hotel in Alvaiázere had accommodated myself and another pilgrim in a house, but it was absolutely freezing inside and therefore I didn’t actually sleep that much. Every time I turned over in my bed I felt the cold…
A visit to the Roman city of Conímbriga
Diving into Portugal’s Roman heritage The Romans entered Portugal in the third century BC. During the approximately 700 years under Roman rule, many new towns were founded, some of which you can still visit today. Others had been vacated and forgotten, until someone dug up the ruins. Conímbriga, situated about…
A race against the clock
On the Caminho from Tomar to Alvaiázere After five days of walking it was so nice to take a day off. I made myself comfortable in the hostel and started the day slowly. There was plenty of time in the afternoon to explore the sights. I sat on my bed,…
Farmland and heritage: Golegã to Tomar
My fifth day on the Camino Portugues. My soggy shoes stood in front of me. I was ready to go, but dreaded putting them on. It reminded me of the miserable walk yesterday. As I put my feet in, I slowly felt the water seeping into my socks, millimeter by…
When you start to think you’re swimming the camino
A wet day on the Portuguese Way from Santarém to Golegã The weatherman had forecasted a rainy day and I had mentally prepared myself to have to start walking in full rain gear. However, I was pleasantly surprised to wake up without hearing the rain and even after breakfast it…
The Caminho along the dyke to Santarém
The Portuguese way from Alvaiázere to Santarém I was so excited to finally take a turn away from the railroad tracks today! So even though it was only 7.40 AM on a Sunday and very foggy again, I was in good spirits. I crossed a river and turned left on…
How my boring day on the camino got more interesting
An unexpected conversation to start my day After freshening up I went down the square winding staircase of the hostel in Vila Franca de Xira. I’d had the 4-bed dorm to myself that night and had slept like a baby. They’d told me there was breakfast in the morning, so…
Leaving Lisbon as a pilgrim
The first stretch on the Camino Portuguese is about 36 km long. It’s a big distance when you’re only just starting the walk, so I decided to split it up into manageable sections. It was the right decision, not just for my body, but also for my mind. The initial…
The Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Coimbra: tips and itinerary
An 8,5 day itinerary on the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Coimbra Not many people start the camino in Lisbon. It may have something to do with the distance of 630 km to reach Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It takes a while… I made the spontaneous decision to start…
A weekend in Coimbra, an underrated Portuguese gem
How I ended up spending a long weekend in Coimbra The pandemic grew into the second wave in Europe while I was traveling in Portugal. In early November there was a long weekend due to a public holiday and the Portuguese government put some measures in place to prevent the…