Overnight at refugio Frey
A girl in my hostel had warned me. She tried to go to Villa Catedral by bus, but the bus never showed up. She was at the wrong stop. Supposedly I was at the right stop, but time passed and I didn’t see a bus. 5 minutes. That’s possible. 10…
My most expensive hike yet
There are many accessible hiking trails around Bariloche, but some lie a bit deeper in the Nahuel Huapi national park. Several trails, including some to the mountain huts, start from Pampa Linda. A rough dirt road gets out there and the road closes during parts of the day. Yet I…
To the almighty Alerce
The alerce tree, or Patagonian cypress, is an endangered type of tree that can get very tall and very old, but grows very slowly. Unfortunately a lot of the trees have disappeared because the wood is of excellent quality. Now, logging is forebidden, although dead trees can still be taken.…
Mixed feelings
Leaving Chile felt strange. I was on a bus from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. It’s not even that far away, as the crow flies. Yet I had the feeling I was closing a chapter. I was ready for a change of scenery, but I almost felt like I was cheating…
My “failed” escape to nature in Chiloé
Before heading out to Cucao, on the West coast of Chiloé, I had a spare day in Castro. I waited with my move because of the weather forecast. A girl in my hostel mentioned she had a car and wanted to go hiking. She confirmed in the morning, but when…
Culture across the water
I was on the last ferry of the season from Chaitén to Castro, a city on the island of Chiloé. I entered a different world. As the ferry approached the big island, there were many smaller islands we came past. There was so much life here! I saw towns everywhere.…
Pumalín national park
The Pumalín park is stretched out over about 80km of the carretera austral. Not the easiest park to visit without a car, especially since the low season has started. Luckily I have my tent and the weather forecast looked great, so I had the bus from Futaleufú drop me off…
El Limite, a new border experience
It seems like there isn’t one system for border crossings. Crossing the border for the 3rd time was very different from earlier crossings. I went from Futaleufú, about 10km from the border in Chile, to Esquel, about 64km further, in Argentina. It involved a short ride in the minibus, walking…
Holidays in Esquel
I had taken a side trip from the carretera austral to get to Futaleufú for rafting. The problem with this border region is that there are beautiful things on both the Chilean and Argentinian side. Planning a logical route seemed impossible to me, so I decided to take a holiday…
Los Alerces, but which one is it?
I’d come into Argentina to see the los Alerces national park. With the fires around El Bolsón, I’d decided to skip the Lago Puelo area and this was my chance of camping near the lakes and enjoying some nature. Of course there was now also a fire here, but it…