Jesuit ruins in Paraguay
In the 17th century, Jesuit missionaries came to the Río de la plata area. They built 30 missions, of which 7 in current Paraguay. It is said that the local people were allowed to keep their own customs and traditions while converting to Christianity. The complexes included a church and…
Waterfall wonderland
“Would you like to join the asado tonight?” I had just arrived in Puerto Iguazú and was very hungry, so the invitation to the hostel bbq was perfect. Not only could I enjoy some grilled meat, but I also talked to a bunch of other travelers, some of whom wanted…
The route of the 7 lakes
It’s perhaps the most popular thing to do in the Bariloche area: the 7 lakes route. The Ruta 40 between San Martín de los Andes and Villa la Angostura is particularly scenic and has become a popular day trip, even from Bariloche. I’d hoped to find some other people interested…
Art another way
“Do you like art?” A woman in Villa la Angostura asks me when we talk about my trip to Buenos Aires. “You should visit the cemetery. It’s beautiful.” Not quite what I expected as an answer. But I was well situated to visit it. My hostel’s 7th floor reception area…
Overnight at refugio Frey
A girl in my hostel had warned me. She tried to go to Villa Catedral by bus, but the bus never showed up. She was at the wrong stop. Supposedly I was at the right stop, but time passed and I didn’t see a bus. 5 minutes. That’s possible. 10…
My most expensive hike yet
There are many accessible hiking trails around Bariloche, but some lie a bit deeper in the Nahuel Huapi national park. Several trails, including some to the mountain huts, start from Pampa Linda. A rough dirt road gets out there and the road closes during parts of the day. Yet I…
To the almighty Alerce
The alerce tree, or Patagonian cypress, is an endangered type of tree that can get very tall and very old, but grows very slowly. Unfortunately a lot of the trees have disappeared because the wood is of excellent quality. Now, logging is forebidden, although dead trees can still be taken.…
Mixed feelings
Leaving Chile felt strange. I was on a bus from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. It’s not even that far away, as the crow flies. Yet I had the feeling I was closing a chapter. I was ready for a change of scenery, but I almost felt like I was cheating…
My “failed” escape to nature in Chiloé
Before heading out to Cucao, on the West coast of Chiloé, I had a spare day in Castro. I waited with my move because of the weather forecast. A girl in my hostel mentioned she had a car and wanted to go hiking. She confirmed in the morning, but when…
Culture across the water
I was on the last ferry of the season from Chaitén to Castro, a city on the island of Chiloé. I entered a different world. As the ferry approached the big island, there were many smaller islands we came past. There was so much life here! I saw towns everywhere.…