During my coastal camino I planned a rest day in Vigo. I had no idea about Vigo, but it is a bigger city and in a good location for a break before the last stretch to Santiago. My research had shown me the gorgeous Cies islands, with supposedly one of the best beaches in the world. However, October doesn’t exactly provide beach weather and in the low season it’s a bit harder to find tours heading out there. I did find a free walking tour in Spanish, but eventually I ended up just wandering around myself.
In the morning I found a laundromat. Even with all my clothes the washing machine was only half full. But it provided an opportunity to practice my Spanish with an older man, who also came for the only small machine in the room. I reluctantly paid for the overpriced laundry, but was happy to have clean clothes that would hopefully last me for the rest of the walk. Back in the hostel many people were still asleep, so I headed out by myself, right as it started raining. Luckily it didn’t last long and a few hours later my wet toes could dry in the sunshine.
The harbour and waterfront
At the harbour I hid from the rain in a modern building. I’m not sure what it was. Something between a shopping mall, passenger terminal, tourist facilities and restaurants. In any case it was still very quiet there, apart from a from more people seeking shelter from the rain. When the rain passed, the sun came out in no-time! I strolled around the harbour area, admiring the boats, views and art works on my way. One monument consists of an old telegraph cable. Vigo used to be a cable connection point between England and it’s colonies in Africa and South America. A bit further, passed the private harbour, I found a statue of Jules Verne. The Bay of Vigo features in his novel 20.000 leagues under the sea.
The old town & center
My hostel was located in the old town, which isn’t big, but still managed to confuse me. There are many small streets and squares and somehow it took me a while to recognise the square of my hostel. Vigo has a big choice of restaurants and cafés and I really enjoyed the vibe of the city. There are some quieter hours during the afternoon though. Just at the edge of the old town was a long shopping street with all the big brands. More to the East lies the city’s train station. It’s located slightly uphill and therefore there’s an elevator inside a halo to get there. You will find the train and bus station as well as a big, modern shopping mall. But most of all… it offers great views over the bay and the city!
Monte do Castro
I saw the clouds getting darker. I knew it was going to rain again. But I still went out to see the view from the fortress at Monte do Castro. At the park you start with a big staircase. At some point I decided to divert to the small paths circling around, snaking their way up slowly. And then it started. As the rain got worse I hid under a tree and stayed put for about half an hour. After that I was the only person at the fortress though.
There are some information signs, but the most interesting part is definitely the view. It’s only 149m high, but the views are unreal. You can look out towards the mountains in the back, where I started, but then I saw the views of the bay and noticed just how big the harbour really is. I saw ships and workshops far in the distance. The clouds made room for a blue sky. It was hard to believe I stood cursing under a tree just a few minutes ago.
Beaches
Even though I didn’t see the Cies Islands up close, I had the chance to see some of Vigo’s other beaches on the walk in. And they surprised me! I still can’t believe how white the sand is and just how much beach there is! Especially since I’d also seen a lot of rocky coast in the area around Vigo. Yet on the city’s West side, it’s a different world to the city. There’s a series of beaches, with Samil as the highlight. It’s big, with a boulevard, parks and cafés.
Surprising art
Vigo offers a mix of everything and spread out through the city I found interesting murals and other works of art. On a main square that connects the shopping street to the old town, I saw a “flying man” high up on a pillar. In the same square they were setting up a gigantic metal Christmas tree. The harbour area close to the old town also had a lot of art works. The murals were really all throughout the city. Some were on angles that were hard to take a photo of though. The murals bring some color to the beige and white buildings.
I’m glad I had a chance to get to know Vigo a bit. When you walk in on the camino you have to walk through a rather uninspiring part of the harbour for about an hour. It doesn’t leave you with a great impression. Unfortunately it’s why most pilgrims I spoke to were happy to leave the city again. I would be happy to revisit, on a sunny day, with a chance to visit the Cies islands.
