Prague’s a beautiful city, but after several visits, I felt the need to explore somewhere further out. I found a castle in the small town of Karlštejn, South West of Prague, that looked like an interesting place for a day trip. After an enjoyable train ride of just under an hour, our train rolled into the small station of Karlštejn. We seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, but we weren’t the only tourists alighting here. It was easy enough to follow the group in the right direction, across the river and up the hill, past souvenir shops and little cafés. In the distance we already saw the solid walls of Karlštejn Castle.
On this beautiful summer day the castle was a popular attraction. You had to book a timed ticket for your visit. Perhaps that was why it didn’t feel so busy at all. I enjoyed the peaceful surroundings, the fresh air and cute houses surrounding the castle. The castle itself was heavily fortified and looked formidable, high up on the hill. Compared to other castles, it wasn’t so much the fairytale castle you’d dream up, like the one in Cesky Krumlov or Neuschwanstein in Germany. It was more the sturdy medieval castle, where you can imagine knights marching up and down the stairs and canons flying around to defend it. This castle wasn’t built to look pretty, this place was built to house King Charles IV’s Crown Jewels.
The 14th century castle is therefore not super attractive, but more mysterious and powerful. You can join a tour through the rooms and tower. The surprise hits you when you enter the chapel of the Holy Cross. Unlike the sober interior of the rest of the rooms, the chapel is surprisingly cosy. The wood with painted panels radiates a sort of warmth. In this part of the castle you can still admire a 14th century wall painting. The rooms was decorated for a great purpose: housing some relics and the Crown Jewels. The Czech Crown Jewels stayed in this room for over 250 years, albeit with a break in between. During the Hussite wars the jewels were relocated, although the castle was never actually captured.
Honestly, you can do a “small tour” where you don’t see the chapel of the Holy Cross, but this wouldn’t be worth it. The rooms are just not as impressive as one would imagine a castle’s rooms to be. So definitely go for the extended tour, that shows you the chapel as well. Photos weren’t allowed in the chapel, but I took plenty of photos of the incredibly green surroundings. The view was magnificent! After a tour through the castle you can pick up some souvenirs or unwind with a cool drink in the small town until the train goes back to Prague.
So the next time you’re in Prague, once border restrictions ease, and you feel like a break from city life, consider a trip into the countryside. The Karlštejn castle is such a pleasant (half) day trip and it’s very easy to do by yourself. Just book your ticket ahead of time so you won’t be disappointed.
