The Pumalín park is stretched out over about 80km of the carretera austral. Not the easiest park to visit without a car, especially since the low season has started. Luckily I have my tent and the weather forecast looked great, so I had the bus from Futaleufú drop me off at the El Amarillo entrance of the park. A friendly park ranger told me where to go and I walked off to the camp ground.
I had hoped someone would take pity on me and pick me up in their car, but all cars were going in the other direction, leaving the park. Therefore I had to walk the 1,5 hrs to the campground with all my things. I was so in my head that I didn’t see the bird the size of a big chicken. I scared him and he ran off, thereby startling me. It looked like a bird of prey in a way, but it almost seemed like it prefered not to fly. At the campground I found a beautiful lawn with patches of trees and bushes, so I took a spot out of sight from the few other tents. I did some laundry and dried it on top of my tent and I lay in the grass for a while. I decided to brave the cold showers while the sun could still warm me up, but there was barely any water coming out of them, which just made the torture last longer. At least I felt somewhat fresh.
The night wasn’t so cold but still I woke up way too early, feeling cold. After a while I decided to get up early and try to reach the next town after the hike. While most were still in their tents, I started my way along the road to the next camping. It was a 4×4 road and it was steep! Definitely woke me up! Although I’d been told the camp was closed, some girls stuck their heads out of a tent as I arrived. From here the real trail started, a 20km out and back walk to see the Ventisquero Amarillo up close, or closer at least. You could already see the glacier in the distance when the trail started and it seemed like you’d have to walk all the way through the valley, through a similar landscape.
Initially there were some wet and muddy sections to cross. The majority of the first half was on firm sand though. At times it was so firm you didn’t even leave footprints. Suddenly the trail went into the forest on the side, just for a little while. Then for a longer, more adventurous section. It went up and down over a small path, with many fallen trees to duck under. I startled some birds that started their panic calls. Then I got out of the forest again and stared at a river. It was time to get the feet wet. After this refreshing foot bath, including a cold stone massage, I could power onwards to the glacier. Slowly the glacier got bigger and the layer of snow on top disappeared from my view. The mirador wasn’t right at the edge of the glacier, but provided an impressive view of the enormous blanket of ice that came down like a hand reaching into the valley. I’d been walking in the shade of the mountain, but as I sat looking at the glacier, the sun turned and lit up the wide valley.
On my way back I did see a handful of people, but this was clearly not a very busy trail. Back at the camp ground I packed my things. The morning dew on my tent had dried and I was happy not to have to unpack my tent again later. I started walking towards the exit, again hoping a car would take me. Only one car passed me until the very end, practically at the park entrance. It was a couple I had seen around the campground, so they knew how far I’d walked. They happened to go to Chaitén and took me all the way there. I didn’t even have to stick my thumb up to get a ride. The man had some strong opinions on Chile’s neighbors though. When I mentioned Bolivia, I was told not to go because it’s uneducated and dangerous. He didn’t have any good words for Argentina either and blamed the people for this. He made the signal of talking, with his hands. So they talk too much or boast too much. Who knows. The message was clear: I was better off just staying in Chile. Then I got the sales pitch on how nice Chile’s coast is.
Chaitén is also on Chile’s coast and is a pleasant base for the Pumalín park. I loved just strolling along the beach for a while. Funilly enough I didn’t see many shells. This beach just seemed to have random rocks instead. It was empty and windy and I could sing along to my music without anyone listening in. I also learned a bit about the town’s tragic history. A volcanic eruption in 2008 completely destroyed the town. It wasn’t lava that did the damage, but the water filled with ashes that came after the eruption. The river even changed its course and now goes right through town. There is a small museum where some of the damaged houses are kept how they are, like how people left them. On another side of town I walked passed what looked like an old base, with more destroyed and abandoned buildings. I was in search of the Chai Chai waterfall. I found it right after a bend in the river. You had to cross the water to see it. Not a part of Pumalín, but honestly, just as impressive. The town’s mirador on the other hand, was a let down. The view was mostly obstructed by trees.
On the North side of the Pumalín park I managed to go to the Cascadas Escondidas, the hidden waterfalls. There’s a bus heading to Puerto Montt at 10.30am that takes people and drops them off at the trail heads. However, the driver then said the return bus would already arrive between 2 and 2.30pm! I arrived around midday. It didn’t leave me with a lot of time and I rushed through the trail. It was a bit muddy, with ladders and walkways going through thick vegetation. First, I headed to the upper waterfall, but I found the lower one more impressive. It was a pleasant walk, but I’d hoped to get another small walk in, located about 30 minutes up the road. By the time I was back on the main road, it was 2 o’clock though.
I decided to eat something and suss out the traffic situation. In one hour I saw 1 car going in the direction of Chaitén. Didn’t seem promising for hitchhiking. So I waited, together with a French couple. Of course it took until about 3.30pm till all the cars and the bus arrived. They all came at the same time because the ferry had just dropped them off at Caleta Gonzalo. I could have done the other walk in the meantime! I decided to stick up my thumb, just in case there was no bus, and a guy stopped to take the three of us. As he was making space on the back seat, the bus stopped as well, but we stuck with the guy. He was from Concepción and was exploring the South with his camping trailer. A good opportunity to speak some Spanish.
Originally I’d wanted to hike the volcano, which provides a stuning view over the area. In the morning it had been cloudy, so I changed my plan and opted for the waterfalls instead. But of course all the clouds disappeared and it would have been the perfect day for the volcano. The next day however, was less perfect. An even thicker layer of clouds covered the city and mountains. You couldn’t see anything of Chaitén’s beautiful setting. It was disappointing I’d missed my opportunity to hike the volcano, despite having had 2 beautiful days to do it. But that’s life, you win some, you lose some. I’ve seen less of Parque Pumalín than I thought I would, but I was pleasantly surprised by lovely Chaitén!
