The Vltava river runs straight through Czechia and can be seen in many postcards with the view of Prague’s castle and old town. It’s caused havoc in Prague when the water levels rose significantly and a big part of the city flooded. However, further away from the bustle of the city, this river offers a a calming trip out in nature. Supposedly the name Vltava is derived from the old German word for wild water. You’d think it would offer adventurous rafting trips over roaring rapids. Well… there is rafting, but paddling would be a better word.
From Český Krumlov several operators offer self guided rafting trips down the river. The fact that they are self guided says it all: there is not too much action involved. But that doesn’t make it less enjoyable. The water is pretty calm and therefore you will need to paddle a bit. You could let yourself be dragged by the current, but then your journey will take quite some time. However, rather than being an adrenaline activity, rafting in Český Krumlov can be for active sports lovers or a very relaxing journey. Sometimes I even feel like the Vltava is the party river. Because it’s so calm, it’s the perfect river to enjoy with some friends and some beers.
When I took my groups down the river, we often bought some drinks and snacks along with us. The river water is the perfect fridge for the drinks! On a sunny day, you’re likely to see many other rafters, kayaks and canoes along the way, shouting “Ahoy!” which just means “hello” in Czech. Czech people come out with their families or friends for a day on the river. Some even do multi-day trips! You’ll paddle past camp grounds and little restaurants or rest areas. The half day trip from Český Krumlov to Zlatá Koruna is a perfect example. This part of the river is often very lively and you’ll get a great sense of a Czech holiday/weekend activity, the Czech countryside and culture. You’ll be surrounded by friendly and jolly locals and you can have a beer and sausage stop at one of the grills along the way.
If you’re short on time another alternative is to start at Větřní and paddle down to Český Krumlov. On this shorter trip (approx. 1-2 hours) you still get a good feel for the countryside and river life. Along this stretch there are also a few more slides, for lack of a better name. The Vltava has different water levels, and to bridge the gap they’ve created slides for your boat. When you approach you’ll see signs indicating which way to go to take the slide and it’s actually quite fun to go down them. There is a slide in the middle of town as well. This is the closest it gets to wild water!
Český Krumlov is probably one of the cutest towns I know, with its fairytale-like castle and its setting in the hills. Therefore you shouldn’t miss paddling through the town itself! Some routes finish at the start of town, or start at it end of town! Therefore you miss the town itself. It’s worth asking if you can add paddling through town as well. The river runs through the town like a snake. It just gives another amazing perspective to see the town from. People are sitting out on the terraces or are walking high up on the castle’s bridges. At times big crowds flood the tiny streets of Český Krumlov as the day trippers come in. On the water, you can watch them all pass by and float off into the quiet countryside to find the true holiday spirit.
Since I can’t travel at the moment, it’s great to think of all the great travel memories I’ve made in the past years. So many emotions come up and I’m reminded of the groups I’ve guided through Europe and the people I’ve met. I’ve been to Český Krumlov several times and had the luxury to explore the river in different types of weather, on different sections and with different people. I feel so incredibly lucky to have had all these experiences, from the quiet paddles with my older groups, to the parties with the younger groups, who were flirting with the Czechs in the boats surrounding us. Traveling may not be possible right now, but my head is still going many places!
Oh how I would love to go back and do a longer paddle or even a multi-day one! I also did a short one and loved it so much. It was so tranquil despite my initial fear of not making the slides. Wish I took more pictures too!
haha yeah, those slides look pretty impressive when you are approaching them. But so much fun!