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December 13, 2024 by Andrea

The birdman tradition

The birdman tradition
December 13, 2024 by Andrea

The Rano Kau volcano used to be the scene for a very special Rapa Nui tradition. Every year the people gathered here for a fierce competion. Each clan would send one competitor in a race for the first egg of the Manutara bird. In this race they had to get down the steep cliffs towards the sea, then swim 1,5km to the Motu Nui island and wait there for the birds to lay their eggs. It could be days. It could be weeks. The chief of the winning clan would live the year as the birdman with special status.

The island seen from the volcano.

The village of Orongo stands on top of the hill, next to the Rano Kau crater. The people of the island used to gather here while the competition was under way. They had built simple shelters, used to sleep in and hide from any rain. The doors were tiny as it’s a windy place. The rest of daily life would take place outside. This place was considered sacred and used to house a beautiful moai, constructed of different stone than most. It was so beautiful that the British explorers took it and it’s still in the museum in London. The Rapa Nui people are very upset about this because they believe the power or energy of the place is now lost. There was still a special stone, the “mother stone”. This had a barely visible drawing of a baby. I coudn’t see the baby though.

Drawing of a birdman
The dwellings on the hill

Along with the plundering of the island’s treasures came a lot of destruction. All the houses you see on the hill have been rebuilt.  I totally understood how the people felt the energy in this place. It is stunning. The crater demands your attention and leaves you in awe. Then there are the immense cliffs that drop into the deep blue ocean. The views were simply stunning. I found it hard to believe people would voluntarily go down these cliffs though. It is also said that many contestants died during the competition. But I guess it was an alternative to having elections. At least it was clear who would hold the power for the year.

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