Tucumán is Argentina’s smallest province. It seems to be a fairly popular stop for South American travelers, but less with Europeans. Since it’s on the way from Córdoba to Salta, I decided to stay a few days. I was so surprised by the city! But also by the surrounding countryside.
I took a day trip to Tafí del Valle. The double decker bus drove out of the city over flat land for about an hour and then turned onto a winding mountain road through the Yungas. A jungle of thick forest surrounded the road and I had a front row seat, looking out over the road ahead through the big windows upstairs. Occassionally there were some houses, crosses or religious statues. We also passed a mirador and a few wifi spots. After slowly zigzagging up the road, we suddenly arrived at a high altitude valley. At over 2000m altitude there were few trees left. Instead it was a dry looking field with a big water reservoir, surrounded by mountaintops.
From the bus station it was a short walk into the center of town. At the tourist info they gave me some suggestions on where I could walk to. I started with what I already had in mind: cerro de la cruz. It seems like every mountain town has a hill with a cross that is pretty quick to get to. I had brought my hiking boots, but they stayed in the plastic bag. It was easy enough to head up over the rocks in sandals. On the way I saw the dique, the water reservoir, in the distance. On the top the view was spectacular. You see the wide valley, covered with houses. Around it are the over 3000m high mountains. Clouds were creeping up from the forest I’d just driven through. But the town was clearly visible.
Later, I visited the Jesuit museum. I had to wait a little while, but then a lovely woman named Julia came to show me around. She was incredibly patient and warm as she explained about the building. She made sure I was always in the best position to see what she was talking about. When she showed me ancient indigenous pottery, I could see the faces they’d made on the water vases. She carefully opened room after room, closing back up as we left. The Jesuits had built this farm in the early 18th century. About 50 years later the Spanish crown expelled them from the area, but their influence left a mark on Tafí. They brought things from their European home, such as the process of cheese making. Cheese is still one of the most typical souvenirs to take home from this valley. After seeing the archeological part and the living quarters, we entered the cheese workshop. Julia had me face the wall, which functioned as a big screen. On it was a projection of the cheese making process. In a playful addition I watched a conversation between two historical figures on the other wall. I was very surprised. BesidesJulia’s explanations, a few other rooms had audio recordings, such as the chapel.
I still had time, so I headed up the road to another viewpoint. There was no sidewalk, but I mostly followed a trail in the grass. Surprised locals looked up from their motorbikes as they passed. I reached the virgen de Guadalupe in a bend in the road. As usual it was an over the top homage to a saint. In the middle, on a plateau stood miss Guadalupe herself. To the side was an area for offerings. A slightly angry looking angel was waving the Argentine flag. Then there was another saint statue. The view was… average. It was blocked for a big part. But from the road I’d still gotten a nice look at the valley. I made my way back down to the sleepy main street. Some shops were closed for siesta, but I managed to buy a magnet and a scarf. Then I found a café for a merienda, a hot drink with snack that is eaten late in the afternoon or early in the evening. My bus left just before 6pm, so I was happy with my pancakes and fruit salad. We mostly zigzagged back down in the dark. In a very Argentinian fashion I ate my dinnner at the hostel around 10.30pm.
