It had rained a loooot overnight and it kept going in the morning. I thought it was dry, went to brush my teeth, only to find out it was raining again when I left the toilet building. Waiting didn’t make sense. I had to pack up camp in the rain. I tried to get the poles out without taking off the outer cover. I somehow managed to get a minimal amount of rain inside.
The sun tried to get through as I was walking. It mostly went up, to the lago de los Patos. I was around the corner from yesterday’s valley and yet it looked completely different. I took my rain paints off and of course it started again shortly after. It was enough to get my jacket soaking wet, but somehow not my pants. I passed several viewpoints of the Grey lake. At some of them I could see little ice bergs that had fallen off the glacier. I also crossed a raging river and in the distance I saw the waterfall feeding it. Then there was Grey camp and refugio. Since it was too early to check in, I ordered a hot chocolate and warmed up in the heated refugio.
Near the camp check in desk was a kitchen, toilets, camping shop and some tables under a roof. Chilling there was the French guy from my hostel who was doing the O-trek. They had waited all morning because the weather was so bad and were about to head out. Meanwhile, I could check in and find any tent spot on the field. She recommended me something, but I couldn’t really figure out what she meant. Anyway, I pitched my wet tent in a drizzle and cursed that I couldn’t get a break. I chucked my things inside and continued walking with my small backpack.
It was possible to walk to the second suspension bridge and cross it to have a closer view of the glacier. There was still a lot of rain, but I didn’t know what else to do. There was a lot of ascent so I was sweating in my rain jacket and it was too hot to put my hood on. Hence, I embraced getting wet hair and looking like I’d drowned. I enjoyed the wild forest, quite jungle-like. The first bridge came into sight fast. You had to climb a ladder to access it, which perhaps was the scariest part. I sure was happy not to have a huge backpack. There were already some views of the Grey glacier, but the view after the second bridge was spectacular, even in the rain! The glacier looks blueish in places and is just impressive due to its size. It was better than I’d expected and once again I was in awe.
After a shower I could join the early dinner at 6pm. Shockingly early! At Grey camp it was buffet style, which made it all more anonymous. I didn’t really speak much with the people who joined my table. Although the ribs and desserts were nice, it didn’t have the same cosy atmosphere as at Chileno. So I left slightly disappointed and was in bed super early. During the night there were mad winds, but I guess they blew away the clouds, because it was like I woke up in a different world. The sun even came through!
I went to the nearby mirador to say goodbye to Grey glacier. And then I could go the same way back as the day before, only now in a t-shirt. The views were much nicer. When I turned a corner I was surprised by wind, strong wind. All the people coming from the other direction were wrapped in many clothes. I decided to put on my fleece too. At times the wind would blow you over, so I stuck my poles in the ground and braced myself. It was an easy day and I arrived back at Paine Grande waaay too early. It was really a day of waiting. Waiting for the ferry. Then waiting in the restaurant on the other side, until the bus came. Then waiting for the second ferry to arrive until the bus could leave. I was tired when I got back to Puerto Natales. At least I had a very comfy hostel to return to.
