I had my mind set on hiking the North coast of Rapa Nui. However, since you now need a guide for most parts of the island, it would be an expensive walk. I tried to ask around for prices or group trips, but it wasn’t a popular activity. In the end I settled for 2 other hikes.
Terevaka
Luckily 2 of the other ladies on the campground wanted to see Terevaka too, so we ended up sharing a ride to the start of the hike at Ahu a Kivi. When we arrived, our driver arranged a lift partly up the hill in the back of a pick up truck that was heading up anyway. It saved us walking up a dirt road, but things got pretty bumpy and dusty in the back. With an extra layer of Rapa Nui’s brown and very hard to clean dirt we headed out into the fields.
There were some signs indicating the way and we found some side tracks to explore. So we walked around the rims of old volcanoes Maunga Kuma and Maunga Puka. There was just grass inside. One of them had a tree. But they were clearly recognisable as volcanoes. With 507 meters, Terevaka is the highest point on the island, so you can view all of the surrounding area and the ocean. It was a windy day and this was probably also the windiest part of the island. It was hilarious but also tiring to fight the wind all the time.
Almost at the top we found a rock with a thick spider web. It was flapping in the wind. One of the girls was trying to build a shelter of other rocks for the spider. We were alone at the top, but as we walked down, more people came up. Some were on horses. As one group of riders passed us I heard “la holandesa”. It took me a while to think of who it could be. Much later it hit me; they were the people I shared a table with at the dance show! When we were walking on the dirt road again, our ride came looking for us. It ended up being an easy hike, but a nice activity.
Rano Kau
I had already seen the crater of Rano Kau on the guided tour, but it had impressed me and it was a hike you could start from the town of Hanga Roa. So I packed some snacks and went passed the small harbour and the airport, in search of the trail. My map had some trail that didn’t seem to exist or were completely overgrown, but eventually I found a path that went up to a forest shortly after the national park office. That must be it!
It was a pretty steep and exposed way up, but it was still somewhat cloudy. Then I entered a forest that smelled amazing. There were a bunch of side trails I did not see on my map, so I followed the route I thought would get me there. After a good climb it brought me into a field with a trail leading straight to the volcano.
The actual rim walk was way longer than it looked and it went up and down and around some rocks. There were some guys walking as well and we reached the end at the ocean at the same time. From there you can see the steep cliffs and the little islands that were used for the birdman competition. Nature here seemed fierce. You have to backtrack the entire way, but it didn’t matter. The views are great from every angle. The water, the little “islands” inside the crater, the cliffs and the ocean. I’m glad I made the trek back up there.
So I didn’t get to do the hike I planned, but these were still some good spots to explore on my own.
