I had one change to get from Berlin to Würzburg. Yet my journey was far from perfect. I left my place early, always scared to miss the train, only to arrive way too early at the station. But today as I walked out, I got a message from Deutsche Bahn. Luckily I had my phone in my hand. “Your departure stop Berlin Gesundbrunnen is cancelled”. What?! The train suddenly started at Hbf today and I got the message about half an hour before it left from there. I was happy I was already on the way to the station and googled a new connection. If I’d left the house at a normal, not too early, time, I wouldn’t have had a suitable connection. Well, I made it to my train and found a seat. Then the train started to rack up a small delay. When we arrived in Nürnberg I had to run to the other platform and wish that train would also be a few minutes late. As I arrived on the platform I heard: “Please enter the train. It is ready to depart.” I sprinted and hopped on without looking at the sign. The signs inside confirmed I was on the right train and we slowly started moving.
My hands had been shaking as I took out my lunch on the train. At least I was on it and it was only a short ride to Würzburg. The Würzburg station is a rather simple; a big rectangle with some modern columns. But behind it are the vineyards and it just looks stunning. I’d arrived. I let the winter sun warm me up as I walked to my hostel, which was practically across from the station. It was spacious, with funky fish drawings. The owner (I presume) had just come outside as I entered and he went up the elevator with me to check me in. It was very calm. Well, everyone turned out to be outside, catching as much rays of sunshine as possible. A taste of spring. A taste of the good life coming back.
I followed the tram tracks into the center. The trams are absolutely huge! Usually they are quite slim, but these are like buses on tracks, with massive square carriages. I was on my way to cross the Main river and saw the most amazing buildings along the way. This city looks rich. I crossed the old Main bridge. For a minute I thought I was in Prague. This is also a pedestrian bridge with statues on both sides, all with a strong relation to the city. It’s the oldest stone bridge in the city, with some of the elements stemming from the 12th century. People are sipping on their wines. The Brückenschoppen is a popular activity for both locals and tourist alike. You can start sipping from 11am.
Across the bridge I headed towards the fortress. There are two options, so I decided to take the long way up, to be able to take the short way down. Behind the St. Burkard church I walked through a creepy tunnel and then up a bunch of stairs. I arrived at a zigzagging path that took me through the vineyards. On one side, high above me, towered the Marienberg fortress. On the other side, below and across the river, were the towers of many churches in a spectacular view of the inner city. People were chilling all along the waterfront. I slowly made my way up, stopping frequently to take in the view and just enjoy this sunny afternoon. There were no grapes on the vines and the trees in the fortress were just branches, without leaves. I can imagine it’s even more spectacular in spring, when flowers and new leaves appear.
I walked around the corner to the side of the fortress and had to squint my eyes despite wearing sunglasses. The sun shone brightly on this side. Half of the fortress was undergoing a big renovation. Unfortunately that meant the side illuminated by the sun was covered in scaffolding. At least the front was relatively free and I captured some nice photos. Drops of sweat rolled down my back, although I was only wearing a t-shirt under my winter jacket and my zipper was all the way open. On the neighboring hill I saw the Käppele, a small white church with yellow edges. I walked past the bulky Maschikuli Tower and climbed the last bit towards the courtyard. A big forklift was transporting building materials up.
Up in the fortress it was peaceful. Only the construction noise disturbed the peace. And the occasional ambulance driving below. The views were still amazing, even though I’d enjoyed them all the way up. I looped past the front and went back through the inner courtyard. In the adjacent, hilly park a few people were lying in the sun. The way back was pretty steep, but before I knew it I was back at the old Main bridge. Even more people had gathered for a wine. I guess that’s the perfect finish after a stroll at the fortress!
